LENOX Tools High-Tension Hacksaw, 12-inch (12132HT50)
Enhance your purchase
|Blade length||12 Inches|
|Item dimensions L x W x H||40 x 16.5 x 3.2 centimetres|
|Power source||Hand Powered|
About this item
- The LENOX hacksaw uses an I-beam construction, allowing the blade to tension up to 50,000 psi
- Rubberized handles allow for confident handling, even in wet and cold environments
- Hacksaw accepts any LENOX reciprocating saw blade to be used as a jab saw
- LENOX hacksaw stores up to 5 extra 12-inch hacksaw blades in the I-beam
- All hacksaw come with one 12-inch, 24 TPI hacksaw blade
Buy it with
Have a question?
Find answers in product info, Q&As, reviews
Your question might be answered by sellers, manufacturers, or customers who bought this product.
Please make sure that you've entered a valid question. You can edit your question or post anyway.
Please enter a question.
Product detailsMaterial Type:Metal
- Is Discontinued By Manufacturer : No
- Product Dimensions : 40.01 x 16.51 x 3.18 cm; 739.36 Grams
- Date First Available : 21 October 2017
- Manufacturer : Lenox
- ASIN : B000LGBZDE
- Item Model Number : 12132HT50
Best Sellers Rank:
18,889 in Home Improvement (See Top 100 in Home Improvement)
- 3,839 in Hand Tools (Home Improvement)
- Customer Reviews:
The LENOX High-Tension Hacksaw uses a special I-beam construction that allows blades to tension up to 50,000 psi, resulting in fast, straight cuts. The rubberized handles allow for confident handling, even in wet and cold environments. The LENOX hacksaw accepts any LENOX reciprocating saw blade for use as a jab saw and can also store up to 5 extra 12-inch hacksaw blades in the I-beam. All hacksaws come with one 12-inch, 24 TPI hacksaw blade for immediate use.
Review this product
Top reviews from other countries
If something was defective, flawed, designed by a dumb . . . bunny (edited for those with delicate sensibilities), we had to say it was questionable in the communication.
And so my title to this review.
A little back ground : I have ALWAYS found Lenox products to be first class. I have four of their older (all gray and chrome) hacksaw frames at home. I have one of each TPI blade in each from 32t to 14t. My point being I must like them and use them A LOT !
At work I have one and figured I would treat myself to one more so I don't have to change blades all the time. At work I only need 32t and 14t.
I just took this new blue, white and gray saw out of the box and unwound the blade tensioner to remove the blade so I could put a finer blade in it.
I have unwound and un wound and pulled on the lever at the bottom of the saw with the rear blade pin in it and . . .
I simply cannot get the frame to relax enough to remove the blade ! ! !
I have not used it yet. I thought I would slide the cardboard card off when I removed the blade.
I can't get even that far.
Lessssssssss Thannnnnnn Immmmmmpressed Lenox.
Some other observations once I modded the saw and got it working (see below) :
This saw seems heavier than my other Lenox high tension saws; I noticed this particularly when holding the frame sideways / parallel to the floor like you would cutting the end of a leg off a chair.
The saw is bulkier; not a problem but lacks the elegance of the old Lenox saws.
The lever / knob for tensioning the blade is awkward to use for a number of reasons. It is now on top the saw where as the old ones were longer sheet metal levers at the bottom of the saw which meant you could loosen and change blades in a fluid motion. Now one is flipping the saw frame back and forth from untensioning, to putting in the blade, to retensioning = unnecessary wasted motion. This could cause one to drop the blade out and if working high having to go back to the ground to retrieve it.
On the same note the lever passes inside the handle with each pass thus causing one to change grips on the knob each turn. With the old lever at the bottom of the handle I could wing it around with my palm until the blade was almost fully tensioned; much faster to do.
And speaking of tension, keeping in mind the old saws were molded with "Eight Turns Max", I find that, perhaps when they now say "twelve turns" this is from the point where you can just barely get the blade on or off. The reason I say that is the final effort on the lever seems about like my old saws at eight turns if I start counting from where there is a slight tensioning on the blade.
GO TWELVE TURNS AT YOUR PERIL ESPECIALLY IF YOU START COUNTING FROM WHEN THE BLADE STARTS TO GET TENSIONED. I'd say eight from when you start to feel tension / resistance is more prudent and plenty of tension.
PS: OK just got back from the shop working over this "saw".
Yes as some have recommended : the not-being-able-to-get-the-blade-out problem can be solved with a little judicious file work.
First tap on the rear blade carrier with a mallet a couple of times as if trying to loosen the blade tension still further. This will leave a mark from up inside the blade carrier so when you remove it you can see right where to file. Doesn't take much maybe a millimeter of depth or less. To remove the carrier press (or punch) the pivot pin out.
Once filed put the carrier back in with the pin less than fully seated and see if it will open enough to get the blade in and out. If good press the pin all the way home.
PPS: one thing I discovered later is that the hole spacing on the old blades is further apart by about 1.3mm (the one I have is unused but from old stock about twenty years old). This is partly why it is hard to get the new blade out of the new saw, they moved the holes closer together in these new blades. That would be fine if they then spec"d the saw to relax enough to get the blade on but they didn't.