To calculate the overall star rating and percentage breakdown by star, we don’t use a simple average. Instead, our system considers things like how recent a review is and if the reviewer bought the item on Amazon. It also analyses reviews to verify trustworthiness.
Sus atornilladores y la serie 370 son una maravilla , este pelacable hecho para Felo por la alemana Jokari funciona muy bien aunque para algunos tal vez se sienta algo frágil, su regleta para medir el corte es aceptablemente precisa. Me voy contento con mi compra. La cortadora solo es para 12AWG/2.5mm o menor.
I was intrigued by this stripper after reading the reviews. I couldn't work out how it was supposed to only strip the sheathing from a wire without damaging the conductors. Have used it for few days now, I have a better idea of how it does the job.
The head is a bit like a rodent's jaws. There are two vee-shaped teeth - one mounted on the top jaw, one on the bottom. As you squeeze the trigger, the jaws come together and the teeth bite into the cable sheathing. As you continue to squeeze the handles further, a cam mechanism inside shifts and starts to pull the top jaw back towards you. With the teeth biting into the cable sheath, the further you squeeze the trigger the more force is exerted onto the end of the sheath you are trying to remove, and after a certain point it just pulls away from the rest of the cable.
This whole process is a little bit of a balancing act because you have one action causing two effects. Squeezing the trigger causes the jaws to close AND the sheathing to get pulled off. However, the amount of force used is what dictates which action has more priority. If, for example, you squeeze just the top of the trigger, it is possible to pull the top jaw back without pulling the teeth together. If you squeeze too hard on the trigger too quickly, you can cause the jaws to bite too deeply through the sheath, into the conductors inside. So, it may take a little trial and error to find the right kind of pressure to match the thickness of sheathing on the wire you are stripping. With practice you can get repeatable, error free results without difficulty. I used it extensively on CAT5e and CAT6 for HDbaseT applications where it's very important you don't nick any of the conductors in the 24AWG pairs inside the external sheath. Once i got the pressure dialed in, I couldn't find any instances of the stripper nicking the pairs, and later testing of the cables seemed to bear this out.
Again, this stripper might not be for everyone, but it's a solid option for anyone who is open to learning how to best use it. Hope this helps some of you!
I don't know how I've lived without this fantastic tool all these years! I've had tons of others over the last 35 years, many of them as a car audio installer, but this one strips wire like nothing I've ever used!!! I just finished wiring 7 Deutsch connectors for a Haltech Elite ecu that is in my Supra, and after the first 2 plugs (an 8 pin and a 10 pin), I had to find something that stripped wire easier and cleaner than my good old Blue Point crimper/cutter from the late '80's. Bought this thing and literally in a few minutes, I had 60 wires cut and stripped (with the vinyl case on each wire still left on the end so the wire doesn't fray before I crimped each pin to it) with no issues at all! I've even used it to strip back the middle of a wire enough to do a military wrap without it nicking or breaking 14AWG wire, I just slid the stop all the way back and angled the wire in the cutting area to do so. I think this stripper will be around long after I'm gone, unless the plastic housing falls apart or breaks, although it feels like a heavy-duty abs-type of plastic so it shouldn't be much of an issue.
I picked these up for speed and because my old stand by pliar type strippers do not go below 18 AWG.
The depth measurement, though in metric, really helps with repeatability. Hint to adjust them easily pinch on the outside of the stop. I always end up going back between metic and SAE in projects so I've gotten I've to the depth. It may be handy for you to convert them and write it down on a card or something. This repeatability will save me a lot of time. I only have to measure the distance on one wire for a connector vs every wire on my pliar type.
I primarily use stranded wire, I've used these on speaker wire and various pvc coated primary wires so far. With zip wire and speaker wire, you will need to split it a bit more than with a plier type just to keep the other wire out of the mechanisms.
I used them on 20AWG to 10 AWG. I only nicked the copper one time because I went to fast. I only failed to strip with it when I tried to strip zip wire without separating them so I cannot count that against them.
Be aware the cutter is not the cleanest and it WILL NOT ACCEPT 10AWG.